Construction type (underwire vs wireless) and cup type are separate decisions. Cup type determines shape, silhouette and what is possible at each cup size. Pick this before you write the tech pack.
Entry level
Flat-press Foam Cup
A foam layer or layers flat-pressed onto a pre-cut cup panel. Lightly padded or push-up profile without visible seams on the outer fabric. The standard cup for everyday bralettes and basic underwire styles.
Best for: A–D cup, wireless bralettes, padded triangle, entry-price underwire
Tooling: No custom mould needed for standard foam shapes
Cost level: •
T-shirt & contour
Moulded (Seamless) Cup
Polyester foam heat-pressed in a 3D die to form the cup in one piece. Smooth, seam-free surface that disappears under T-shirts. Gives a smooth silhouette on the outer fabric.
Best for: A–D cup, T-shirt bras, contour/demi, premium smooth-silhouette lines
Tooling: Custom mould required for bespoke cup shape. We carry standard shapes
Cost level: ••
D+ & premium
Seamed (Cut-and-sew) Cup
Two to four fabric panels sewn together to build the cup shape. Allows precise control over projection, lift and volume that moulded construction cannot achieve at larger cup sizes. Visible seam lines can be a design feature in lace or premium styles.
Best for: D cup and above, lace-dominant designs, bridal/premium, bespoke fit
Tooling: No mould: pattern drafted and graded on our CAD system
Cost level: ••